Apr 2008

Cape Tribulation is known for it's unique demarcation between rainforest and the great barrier reef where two world heritage sites meet. Port Douglas is a place where very rich people like to live. Having booked most of my tours for the rest of of my time in Australia I just need to make sure I'm at the right place at the right time.

At 7:30am I'm picked up from the hostel by a guide in a minibus. Another fellow hosteler, named Shirley from England, is on the tour and we strike up a conversation. For the most part, people I have met travel as 'backpackers' to see the great 'sights' of the world, whether it be something like the Taj Mahal, Sydney Opera house or what ever, but Shirley has left the comfort of her suburban life to also join in voluntary projects - like helping teach poor children of railway workers in Mumbai, India. I listen to stories of the struggle to teach these children, some of whom have no shoes let alone books to study from. This for me, and I'm sure for anyone else who might hear about it, is a noble pursuit and I admire her for it.

Having picked up all passengers for the excursion, we head toward Cape Tribulation. The guide and driver, named Cindy, keeps us fully entertained with jokes and observations of the landscape around us. It's like she's on holiday and we're there accompanying her as her audience. She is very entertaining. We get to our destination, which is a short walk through the rain forest. Looking around seeing unfamiliar looking trees, vegetation and insects is nothing like a lecture, although we all learn something. At one point Cindy picks up an ant. She grabs it between her thumb and first finger and invites people in the group to lick the ant's behind. You must be joking, I think. What the heck is all that about ? When nobody agrees to try it she shows us how it's done. After a few licks the ant secretes something that tastes a little lemony. Apparently, and who knows how this was discovered, Aborigine's use this as a source of vitamin C or something; if someone feels under the weather. Someone in our group (not me) volunteers to try and confirms that you do get a taste after licking. Well, who would have thought it ? I'm in no hurry to see if this works while I am able to buy vitamin tablets from the supermarket. In fact, I think can get away without vitamins, but I wouldn't want to stop anyone else doing it.

We are given time to do a little exploring around the forest and swim in a pool under a small waterfall/rapid. All too quickly, the time ticks by. We then head to Port Douglas. Port Douglas seems a little seaside towns in England. There are plenty of souvenir shops, cafe's, pubs and restaurants to visit. After an hour or so we are back in the minibus and heading back to our hostels.

In the evening I meet up with Shirley and we go for a meal at the local Indian restaurant. It's owned by a Punjabi owner who says he visits India every year and knows Jullundhar and Banga. He puts me on the spot and wants me to speak to him in Punjabi; I pass the test. Did he think I was joking that I am 'Punjabi' too? The food we order doesn't disappoint. Actually, spicy food always seems more filling and I can't eat all that I've ordered. It's been an enjoyable and fully packed day. I say goodbye to Shirley and wish her well in her travels and the next project she is going to.

Diving at the great Barrier Reef. I'm sure I've seen this in one of those '101 things you must do before you die' type lists they have in magazines sometimes.

The two hour journey to the Reef by a speedy boat is an unpleasant one. I desperately feel I'm about to be sick thanks to the choppy seas. As soon as the boat stops I begin to feel a little better. It was worse on the way back.

As a team of six of us are under water, we are all acutely aware of this iconic place. Ideally, I would have liked to have seen turtles, sharks, anything out of the ordinary, but it was not to be. Nevertheless, I did see many fish of many colours including clown fish (Nemo) and many others I couldn't name. To be on the Great Barrier Reef and see this underwater world that is shaped by nature not man is a memorable experience. That's pretty cool, pinch yourself.

One of the divers is quite inexperienced and he descends too quickly into the water. As a consequence he has a bleeding nose and can't carry on the dive. He is taken back to the surface by the master diver and then back to the main boat.

After the first dive we are taken to a small island where the snorkellers from our main group are. And we get a chance to sunbathe for a while before returning to the main boat where a buffet lunch is served. Five of us then go for a second dive at a second location.

Another day goes by very quickly.

Is it just me who didn't know that Australia has a rain forest or should I have kept this quiet to hide my ignorance ? Apparently, at one time, it took over a large portion of this very big island. And now it's just 0.1% of the land mass and is largely, and necessarily, protected by law.

A twenty minute bus journey takes you from Cairns to the 'Sky Train.' This is a cable car station like they have at ski resorts. A cable car takes you over the rain forest to the top of the mountain and a little town of Kuranda. As an alternative, most people take the slow train back down the mountain. The view over the rain forest is awesome. At one of the cable car stops you can get off and take a fifteen minute guided tour. This is far more interesting than any 'school lesson.' At another station you can see a waterfall.

Finally, at the top is the little town of Kuranda. This appears a little odd as there is dense rain forest all around. It seems we are lucky that the weather is good, it has rained by three meters in the last three months. The town has cafe's and shops all willing to see you part with your money. Lunch comprising of burger, chips and a coke was a tad expensive (that's another way of saying a rip-off). There is a 'snake venom' zoo to visit that has snakes, insects and bugs to see. Also, there is a koala zoo, which has other animals like wallabies to see there. There are plenty of things to occupy a few hours.

On my tour party I meet Tamsin, who is an exchange teacher from England, and she has to have her picture taken while holding a koala, like a teddy bear. There are plenty of other, mainly girls and women who are equally dotty over these creatures. It's interesting to listen to the views of Brit who's been here for a few months. I still don't hear anything negative about Australia. By chance we walk past someone who looks like an Aborigine teenager who is just conversing with an American. 'Yoh, give me some skin bro,' the Aborigine boy says (something like that anyway). This is a little freaky. Do these kids want to be Harlem 'Boys from the hood' too ? Tell me I'm dreaming.

After a few hours it's back down the mountain by slow train. The train is very old and may actually be a converted steam train, I don't know for sure.

Cairns is where it all happens, apparently. The number of tourists, backpackers and visitors is huge. I don't think I'll be meeting many native Australians here. Arguably, it's not really because of the the city of Cairns itself, but there are a number of attractions, 'The Great Barrier Reef' being the most famous of these, are all within easy reach. Having said that, Cairns is a really nice place. Walking up to the sea, similar to the south bank in Brisbane, there is an huge outdoor swimming pool. The grassy park area right next to it has people playing games like throwing frisbees. And I think they have barbecues for general use by the public as they appear to be permanent features. I haven't seen anything like this before on my travels. It's really far from what I'm use to in 'normality.'

Over these two days I try not too spend too much money, without success. The cost of living here is high. There is a local market very near my hostel (called Bohemia Central). For the first time in a long while, I actually cook for myself: chicken curry and rice. It turns out quite nice. It's far better then heating up noodles, which is what most people seem to eat in hostels. The chillies are a little hot though.

Incidentally, this is what I found out about the meaning of 'Bohemain':

"The following question has been asked to determine whether one is a Bohemian: You have enough money to buy either art supplies or a meal, but not enough money to buy both. Which would you buy? If you chose art supplies, you qualify as a Bohemian."

I'm not sure this hostel has any Bohemian credentials, but I wouldn't count out staying here again.

I've mapped out the rest of my trip at a travel agents and have to shell out a fair bit money, gulp. I may be living on bread and water for a while.

Today I'm visiting Australia zoo. Then I'm going to catch a flight from Brisbane airport to Cairns. I had thought of taking a bus or train from from Brisbane to Cairns, but forty-eight hours by train or 2 hours by plane ? The plane idea won.

I'm still not use to the time difference and struggle to sleep and get up early. I rush to the train station with my rucksacks - carrying one and wheeling the other. It should be about an one hour journey by train and a fifteen minute bus ride to Australia zoo. I should get off the train at Beerwah station. Instead, I get off two stops early on a station with a similar sounding name. The next train will pass by in an hour's time. There's an old man sitting on the one bench they have at the station with his two pet dogs. I thought he was waiting for a train, but he had just wondered out from his house which is less than a minute walk from the station. We chat briefly and he tells me that there's no taxi around. He then heads back home.

A couple of minutes later another chap appears on the station platform and starts chatting to me. "Come on," he says. "I'll give you a lift." He's the son of the first gentleman I spoke to. For a moment I wonder if it's a good idea to follow a complete stranger, but I do it anyway.

On the car journey, he learns I haven't any knowledge of the area and offers to take me on a slight detour to see the 'Glass House Mountains.' I can't say no, so agree to go along with the idea. It turns out he (Vince is his name) was genuinely doing me a favour. He takes me up to a mountain viewpoint. The panoramic view of the mountains is spectacular. My initial mistake in getting off at the the wrong stop is a blessing in disguise.

Vince then drops me outside the Australia zoo entrance. I thank him for is generosity. His son happens to be visiting England and I give Vince my details in case I can help him when I get back to England.

At Australia zoo it's a shame I can't see Steve Irwin do his Crocodile feeding. It's his best mate and Steve Irwin's widow who do the routine in a stadium filled mainly with young children and families. We also get to see a display of flying birds around the stadium and other shows aimed at kids. The rest of the zoo is quite like other zoos, but including animals only found in this part of the world like Koala bears, Wombats, Dingos and kangaroos that just wonder around one part of the zoo and are allowed to be fed by the public.

I make it back in time to Brisbane by bus and train and then the airport to catch the plane to Cairns.